Step 3: As I round over the sharp edges I work from the center of the block towards the top or bottom edge. This leaves me a slight bulge at the centerline of the block. I am going to use that bulge point as the bottom edge of my nose.
Draw a pencil line around the rounded block at the bottom of the bulge area. Note in the photo that you can grip the pencil and brace your hand with your small finger on the bottom of your block to use your hand just like a compass. This makes a fairly accurate line as you turn the block around the pencil.
Step 4: Using my bench knife I can deepen the shelf of the nose, the bottom edge of the nose, by using a paring stroke on the wood below the nose. The paring stroke is made by pulling the knife towards you.
Make several paring strokes, worked towards the bottom of the block. Turn the block over in your hand and work the paring stroke into those previously made. This will lift the chips from under the nose. Flatten the edge under the nose all the way to the bottom of the block.
TIP – The pulled stroke with the bench knife is called a paring cut. If you push the knife edge away from you it is called a push cut.
TIP – As you become more comfortable with how each tools fits in your hand, how it makes the cut, and how to angle the cut you will find that turning the wood block over in your hand makes the cuts easier to execute.
To learn more about the paring, push, and stop cuts please visit our blog page: Stop Cuts in Relief Carving
|Flamed Copper Earrings at ArtDesignsStudio.com|
From the author of Easy and Elegant Beaded Copper Jewelry and Essential Links for Wire jewelry.Step-by-step instructions for creating your own flamed copper earrings including how to transfer you pattern, dress the edges of cut copper shapes, add a texture by hammerings, wire wrapping, embossing, and how to add brilliant coloring through flaming.