Step 7: Using the bench knife or large chip carving knife and a paring stroke begin lowering the cheek area under the brow ridge line beside the nose. Roll the knife from shallow along the brow ridge to the depth of the side of the nose at the nose shelf. Turn your block upside down and using the paring stroke work back into the eye area to release the chips just made.
TIP – I like to work each step on both sides of the face at the same time. So I will cut the stop cut along the side of the nose on both sides then lower the eye area on both sides, then go onto the next step working it on both sides. For me, this keeps the work fairly even.
Step 8: To deepen the overhang of the eye brow ridge I am using a small, 1/8″ to 3/16″, round gouge along the eye area at the brow ridge pencil line. This cut is across the grain where the previous paring cuts with the bench knife were worked with the grain growth of the wood. Cross grain cuts can be slightly ragged along the edge as shown in the photo. If your edge is excessively ragged or you have chip out – small triangles of lifted wood – you need to sharpen your gouge. Work several gouge cuts in this area to blend it with the paring cuts.
TIP – A slip strop or slip stone is perfect for sharpening your round gouges. This slip stone is a ceramic sharpening stone in a cylinder shape. You need a slip stone that fits the diameter or is slightly smaller then the diameter of your gouge. A slip strop is a profiled sharpening tool that may be made of ceramic or wood. Slip strops come with pre-shaped areas for sharpening your round and v-gouges and is used with rouging compound.
To learn more about sharpening your wood carving tools please visit our blog page: Sharpening Your Tools
|Fretwork, Scroll Saw Lamps at ArtDesignsStudio.com|
Gang cut these patterns to create quick, and easy fretwork lamps. Each pattern is shown as a line art pattern and with a light gray fill in the cut-out area. Included is a toothed wheel pattern that slots into each fretwork cut-out lamp side.