Learn in this free, online pyrography project how easy it is to add pyrography burnings to small leather boot belts, leather belts, and leather wrist bands. Step-by-step instruction and free wood burning patterns.
Part 1: Basic Construction Techniques for Leather Belts, Leather Boot Belts, and Leather Wrist Bands
Our leather burning project comes from my pyrography book, Art of Leather Burning. It joins Landscape Pyrography, Great Book of Wood Burning, The Little Book of Wood Burning, Pyrography Basics, and Arts and Crafts Pyrography, in my wood burning library. All Available at Amazon.com
Pyrography Leather Boot Belt, Part One Construction
Pyrography Leather Boot Belt, Part Two, Leather Burning
Low-Range One-Temperature Pyrography Tool
The one-temperature tool, shown here, is specifically made for pyrography work with a high range of only 750 degrees. This lower heat range is perfect for any leather crafting project. This is the primary tool that I used throughout the projects shown in this book and is very capable of handling any pyrography technique or skill.
Shown left to right – transparent quilting ruler, skiver, bench knife, edge beveler, Gum Tragacanth, cotton swap, edge slicker, 6/7 ounce leather, shown on a self-healing cutting mat
Supplies:
6/7 ounce vegetable-tanned leather
1 belt buckle
1 belt keeper or 1 – ¼” (6mm) length of leather and belt keeper staple
craft knife, rotary cutter, or bench knife
transparent ruler, metal ruler
soft #6 – #8 pencil
synthetic all-purpose eraser, document cleaning pad, or white artist eraser
rotary hole punch or drive punch
skiver
edge beveler
gum Tragacanth
edge slicker
Part One: Boot Belt Construction
Boot belts are as much fun to wear as they are to work. They are just short versions of the standard belt, made to loosely fit around the ankle area of your work or dress boots. Multiple boot belts can be stacked to add to their decorative impact.
Step 1: Measuring for the Length of your Belt
Measure the circumference of your boot about three inches above the ankle area. Add to this measurement 2 ½” (63.5mm) for the fold-over that secures the buckle and 4-5” (102-127mm) for the end overlap with the buckle holes. This is the total length of your leather piece. Next, measure the width of your buckle where the leather will slide through the bar and latch, this becomes the width of your belt blank.
For wrist bands reduce the belt end measurement to 2 -3” (51-77mm), and for standard belts increase this measurement to 6-7” (152-178mm).
Step 2: Cutting Leather
By working on a self-healing mat with a pre-printed grid you can ensure an accurate straight cut.
Leather can be cut using a sturdy craft knife, wood carving bench knife, or sewing rotary cutter. A non-skid, self-healing cutting mat is used to protect your crafting table and comes pre-printed with a measured grid work and common cutting angles.
The metal ruler, shown above, has a cork-back that keeps it secure to the leather. You can also use a T-square or right-angle square. Transparent quilting rulers also have a pre-printed grid work that allows you to see exactly where the straight edge of your ruler falls on the leather.
Step 3: Leather Skiver
A skiver hold a razor-blade edge in a concave curve that removes thin slices of leather from the back edge of the piece. This thins the leather for cleaner edges and easier bending.
A skiver can be used along both outside edges of the buckle fold areas on the back of your belt blank from the buckle area towards the front end of the blank.
Skivers are used to thin the sides of purse and wallet inserts, purse or belt pocket sides, and any other area of construction that has multiple layers of leather stitched together.
Step 4: Checking the Buckle Fold
In this photo you can see the original thickness of the belt blank and the new edge thickness of the buckle fold. The fold is now about two-thirds of the original leather thickness.
When the skiving is complete you can fold the belt blank along the buckle area to check your buckle placement and the thickness of the folded area that will secure the buckle in place.
Step 5: Measuring the Buckle Hole
The center point of the buckle hole is marked 2 3/4” (70mm) from the belt blank edge. To create a long slot in the leather through which you will thread the buckle latch, make a mark 3/8” (10mm) on each side of the center buckle mark.
The slot for this belt buckle measures ¾” (19mm) long total. Adjust the size of your slot to fit the buckle you will be using. Wide, thick metal buckles may need a slot as long as 1 1/8” (28.5mm) while small shoe buckles may only need a ½” (13mm) slot. Allow enough length in the slot so that the buckle latch can move freely.
Step 6: Creating a Card Stock Template
Cutting guides can be made out of card stock weight paper and re-used for accurate, easily repeated hole placement.
Often accessory hardware is sold in multiple unit packs. The buckle used in this boot belt came in a package of ten. Since I know that I will be using this style and size buckle in several projects I made a quick cutting and hole placement template out of a card stock file folder. Note on the template that I have labeled it with pencil so that I know which buckle it matches.
Step 7: Punching the Buckle Hole
The two sides of the buckle hole measured line are first cut using a hole punch. The size of the punch is determined by the thickness of your buckle latch.
For this sample the buckle latch measured 1/8” (3mm) wide so I chose a 3/16” (5mm) wide hole punch which gives just a little extra room for the free movement of the latch. One hole is punched at the beginning of your measured line and one at the end.
Rotary Hole Punch
A rotary hole punch has multiple standard sized hole punches set on a wheel for quick access and hole size changes. The handles are set with an inner spring that helps to drive the punch through the leather surface.
As with many quality tools a rotary hole punch will last for decades, the one shown is from my father’s leathercrafting kit and is about 50 years old.
Both rotary hole punches and drive punches can damage the underside of the leather around the cut hole. You can avoid this problem by placing a piece of scrap leather under your project leather.
There are several methods of cutting or punching holes for the new leather crafter. You can use the rotary hole punch which has multiple sized punches from a small diameter of 1/16” (2mm), up to a large sized ¼” (6mm) punch.
You can also use a round drive punches, which are purchased by the set of four to six standard hole sizes. The drive punch is hand-held in an upright position to the leather, which has been placed on a thick cork board or a thick self-healing poly board, and driven into the leather using a leather or synthetic mallet.
Cork and self-healing poly boards allow the cutting edge of the round drive punch or the hand awl to penetrate their surfaces, therefore protecting the cutting edge of your tools.
Step 8: Opening the Buckle Slot
Using a craft knife, bench knife, or straight chisel cut the top and bottom of the buckle latch slot.
Step 9: Trimming the Belt End
Using a small round jar or cup as your guide, pencil a curved cutting line on the end of your belt. Cut along the trim line with a bench knife or craft knife.
Step 10: Edge Beveler
An edge beveler can be glided along the corner edges of the top tanned side of the leather belt to remove a thin sliver of leather. This rounds the edge of the leather.
