What I have done is applied her great technique to our wood carving, wood burning, and gourd art paintings. Its so simple, but extremely effective. The smaller background fish has just the acrylic paints and the overlay larger fish has been enhanced with eye shadow make up.
After you have finished painting your wood project using acrylics or oil paints but before you have applied any finish or sealer, grab up some of your old eye shadow make up. You will also want several small clean, filbert-type brushes.
Pick up a little eye shadow color on your brush and gently rub the brush over the area that you want to shade or intensify the color. You can apply several coats and you can apply one color over another to create added color interest.
For my fish decoy I started with a dark purple eye shadow in the deep joint line between the fish’s body and his top fin. Dark blue eye shadow added depth to the v-gouge line that runs through the center of his body, and bright green was added under his eye to enhance that sparkle.
Deep purple and teal were worked along the joints of the fins with the body and along the bottom edge of his belly.
Because eye shadow is a powder it is easily blended with just a brush, adding gentle graduations of color. While I probably won’t paint an entire wood project just with eye shadows, they are perfect for brightening and strengthening your shadows and highlights without any brush strokes.
After you are done simple proceed onto your sealer and finishing steps!!!!
There is no question that adult coloring is such a success … it’s fun, it’s fast, and it’s easy.
But aren’t you ready for something more? Aren’t you losing interest in filling in little tiny areas of nonsense doodle designs? Have you had enough of coloring in one repeated pattern a hundred times across a sheet of paper?
You know you can do so much more than just fill-in-the-blank!
Let’s break out of the boundaries, let’s color outside the box, and let’s take on a new challenge … Adult Coloring Portraits.
Our new 149 page PDF E-Book, by Lora S Irish, Adult Coloring Portraits is now ready for download to your computer. It includes 6 step-by-step projects for creating brilliant, vibrant skin tones; 62 patterns for wood spirits, greenmen, pixies, elves, vampires, feathered shamans, dragons, and a small assortment of fun designs.
Let’s look at a sample portrait from our new E-Book.
We think of skin tones as shades of white, black, brown, red, and yellow … but all skin coloring is simply a shade of orange. From very pale orange to deep, rich red-black, every human skin color can be created using the same set of colored pencils – a pale yellow-orange, medium golden orange, medium cadmium orange, red-orange, deep rust-orange, and burnt umber orange.
And we often think of skin shadow colors as shades of deep brown or black. Yet in colored pencils using a plain medium or dark brown dulls and dirties the face color.
So let’s start by exploring what other colored pencil shades you may have in your kit that will create those vibrant shadows in your portrait work.
Here are five pages, directly from the E-Book, that show a few of the different shading colors you can used for your face – burnt umber, 70% gray, black cherry red, deep violet, and indigo blue – and how these colors interact with your overall skin color.
Click on the images, below, for a full-sized, 8 1/2″ x 11″, printable copy directly from our new E-Book, Adult Coloring Portraits.
Whether you are a wood carver, a pyrographer, or a gourd artist eventually you will be using color. Color is part of everything we see and understanding how color works – the basics to color theory – insures that your project is vibrant, vivid, and bold each and every time.
Over the next few days we will focus on how the eye sees color v. how the eye sees shadows and light, primary colors v. complimentary colors, and color combinations that create intense skin tones.
So, grab your freebie now and have fun reading through the basics. Tomorrow we will start a fun, step-by-step Mystic Shaman portrait!
Since this seminar is all about how to incorporate multiple hobbies into one project, during this posting we will be using colored pencils to create skin coloring for our scroll saw cut, wood burned Wood Spirit face.
There are several excellent brands of colored pencils that we can use in pyrography. I strongly suggest that you invest in an artist quality or artist grade set. Student grade or school grade colored pencils, as those that come with the new Adult Coloring Books are often chalk-based and do not apply to wood in a smooth, easy to blend layer. Artist quality pencils are wax-based or watercolor-based, apply easily and evenly across your wood, paper, and even fabric.
The following are a few of my favorites, available at Amazon.com and I do mix and match manufacture brands in any project!
Prismacolors are my favorite for watercolor paper, vellum, and chip board colored pencil work. These have a soft wax core, blend easily, and will leave a nice, rich coloring with light strokes.
I use my Derwents for adding coloring to wood burnings on wood. Derwents have a harder core than Prismacolor and are perfect for getting into the tight wood grain and deeply scored pyrography detailing that some of our wood burnings have.
Lyra is a must-have for anyone who does a lot of skin tone work. This pack has twelve extra-large pencils in the most common skin colors. No mix, no mess, just chose the shade for your shadows, highlights, and general skin tones.
Step 1 Since my wood spirit will become the end caps to a small, outdoor bird feeder I have chosen basic, strong colors for my project’s skin tones. As we work through these steps you will be able see how working one color of pencil over another creates new color hues in your project.
You do not need a large set of pencils. A set between 12 to 24 is enough colors to create a wide range of hues by working one color over another.
Note: Colored pencils apply best when laid down in light-pressure, thin layers, not heavy-pressure one-step coloring. Thin layers allow the wood burning shading to clearly show through the hues and can be developed with additional layers to create deep, rich color tones.
Keep your pencil points sharp so that the point can easily reach into the fine crevices of the burned strokes and wood grain.
New colors can be created by working thin layers of one color over another color. For best results apply the darker toned color first then lay the paler color tone on top.
Step 2 We may refer to skin colors as white, yellow, red, brown, or black, but all skin colors are simply shades of orange. All humans have orange colored skin! Some of us may have pale white-orange skin, and others a red-orange tone, and some such a deep coloring of orange that it appears almost black … but everyone of us is orange!
To learn how to get that perfect skin color every time. please read Adding Skin Colors to Wood Burnings. It is an in-depth look at the mixing color hues to get just the right shade of orange for your portrait.
The base shadow color for my wood spirit is black cherry – a rich, deep red-purple. Work several light layers of black cherry over the areas of shading in the face that you created with your wood burning steps.
Since all skin tones are shades of orange, we are using a purple-toned colored pencil for a our base shading step. Purple is the compliment to orange and when the orange pencil is worked over this purple shading the finished coloring will be a rich shade of brown.
Let your pencil lines show, let them go in random directions, and keep the pressure on the pencil tip light. The random lines add to the wild look of the wood spirit.
Step 3 Since I want my wood spirit wild and woolly I am adding more shading over my base of black cherry using a deep ultramarien blue colored pencil. Work several light layers of ultramarine blue in the same general areas as the pyrography shading on the face, but do not cover up all of your black cherry work.
Skin is transparent, while it does have pigment you can see through the skin to the vein and bones in the body. Blood veins often have a bluish cast under the skin, so in our wood spirit we can use the ultramarine blue to pick up that effect.
Just as we allowed the wood burning shading of the face to move into the hair strand area, take some of this colored pencil shading into those same areas.
Step 4 A couple of light layers of forest green shading blends the shadow areas of the face. Note in the photo that no area of the shading now has one individual strong coloring, but instead has a speckled, blended effect. Green works just as tones of blue in portrait coloring, implying the under-structure of bone and veins.
Step 5 Now that you have the shadows well established in the face it is time to overlay the general skin tone. I used a medium rust-brown pencil for this general overlay. Apply several light layers of coloring to the face. Allow some areas of the original wood uncolored to create your highlights – the center of the forehead, the outer corners of the upper eye lids, the center of the eye wrinkles below the eyes, the center line of the nose, the center of the cheeks, and the center of the mouth.
As with all of the other colors, work these layers of skin tone directly over your previous colors, and expand your coloring area towards the areas that you will leave as highlights.
Two light coats of this general skin tone is also applied to the mustache and beard area of the face to give it just a touch of color toning.
Step 6 Several light coats of orange is applied to the entire face – over the shaded areas and the highlights. This orange is what gives the skin its warmth, makes it feel alive.
Step 7I decided that I wanted my wood spirit to have a darker base coloring to his skin tone. So I have added a few layers of a darker brown skin colored pencil.
Step 8 My highlights in the face as of Step 7 are in bright orange. To add those bright reflective spots on the high areas of the face I use Titanium white. Again, use freely moving strokes and let your pencil lines show.
In this photo you can note that my pencil is two-toned. When a colored pencil becomes to short to place in the pencil sharpener or too short to hold comfortably, simply super glue the blunt end to the end of another pencil!
Step 9 I want my wood spirit to have grey-white hair, so I will be using the coloring of the birch wood as my base color for all of his hair and beard.
To create individual strands of hair I used the Titanium white pencil, and worked long, curving lines of white from his face towards the outer edge of the hair area.
This white is worked in those hair strands that are closest to you, on top of other strands. Click on the image for a close-up.
Step 10 Using a medium grey or french grey colored pencil I have added more hair lines into the mid-ground and background hair strands. Again, let your pencil lines show.
Step 11 My last step is to intensify the white throughout the wood spirit’s face and hair. As this is the last layer of colored pencil work I can add extra pressure to the pencil to create thicker line work.
Once the coloring is completed I give my wood burned colored pencil projects a light coating or Reworkable Spray Fixative. This is a matte toned finish that protects the work you have already accomplished but that also allows you to add more colored pencil work over your piece.
This protects the work I have done while I decide what final finish I may want for the project. Since this scroll saw wood spirit and its matched gang-cut piece will become the end pieces for my small bird feeder, it will eventually be finished with polyurethane after it is attached to the feeder.
Thanks for reading ….. tomorrow we will be working on scroll saw cutting our wooden spoon and the wood carving steps for that project. See ya’ there!
