Step 45: Using the Versa-Tool
The Versa-Tool is a variable temperature burner with the thermostat on the cord. It comes with interchangeable brass tips which are threaded to screw into the tool’s end. To start this work I chose the leaf shaped shader tip and a medium setting – yellow-orange. The Versa-Tool uses a color scale, not a number scale for heat settings.
Allow the tool tip to reach temperature, up to five minutes. Slide the leaf tip into the undercuts of the wings, slowly working the tip into the tight v-cut between the wings and background wood. The hot tip will burn away or loosen any rough fibers or jagged chips in this area.
Since the leaf shaped shader lays flat against the wood I also used it for the free-floating cuts under the leaves. As you pull the burner tip across the background wood you can flatten any ridges left in the background from creating these free-floating areas.
After the undercuts were cleaned I turned off my Versa-Tool and allowed the tip to cool, then I changed to the universal tip – the tight v-shaped tip. Turn you temp setting back to a medium heat – yellow orange – and allow the tip to reach its heat setting. The sharp v-edge of this tip can be used to crisp the v-cuts between each of the larger feathers.
Step 46: Working the shoulder feathers and Working the front wing feathers
I have changed over to my Optima, it has a wonderfully flexible pen cord which makes it easier for me to change hand directions while burning. The Versa-Tool or the Colwood will do these following steps just as well!
I have a spear shaped shader as my tool tip and a heat setting of 5. Both the Colwood and Optima use a numbering scale for their temperature settings.
To create the fine feathers in the shoulder I can use the side or edge of this shader as if it were a pencil point and simply draw in each feather with a slow, even pull of the tool across the wood.
Using this same spear shaped shader tip I can create a thin undercut along each row of fine shoulder feathers.
Separate the feathers by burning a thin line along the v-gouge cut. You can undercut these lines by allowing the tool tip to stay on the wood fo
r a few extra moments. The fine diagonal feather lines are made by laying the edge of the tool on the feather – it is a touch and lift stroke.
Work though both layers of feathers in the front wing. re-work your undercuts as needed whenever you feel you want a touch more depth or definition in an area.
As I was working these steps I decided that I still was not pleased with the overall size of my goose’s skull. So I took a few moments and re-cut and sanded this area.
